Where past collections have boasted brutal prints and unconventional silhouettes, Asger’s SS16 aesthetic takes a more relaxed route. Not to say it mutes impact or individuality, but more reflects his progression as a designer to show strength in subtlety. The designers relationship with his craft is quite literally evoked, with a love letter enscribed across and into the collection. Whether on rubber injected patches or lettered into printed jumpers and t-shirts, this honesty is an affirmation of the unapologetic connection personal style holds to its wearer.
From the industrial terrains and Dystopian backdrops of past seasons, this collection has instead washed up on tropic seashores.
The tranquil scene is seen through ecstatic eyes, with two new digital prints being introduced. One features a wild forest in neon green, caged under Asger’s diamond shaped wires and logo. The other is a whirlpool of rust and amber tones, again with the same caged layer. This marks the return of fresh screen printing, similar to the implementation in Asger’s ready-to-wear
and non seasonal collection, Madhouse. Alongside these tropical tones are the inclusion of reflective greys, dusty finishes, and see through plastic; all of which cater for the futuristic effect Asger is known for.
The silhouette is consistently relaxed, even when tailoring is involved and at the forefront. Jumpers, tanks and t-shirts are loose, but are intended to be tucked into wide shorts or trousers. The waistbands boast structured fronts and elastic sportswear detail to the back, enabling the marriage of suave and sport tendencies. Aloha shirts make a comeback and are styled with an exposed chest in mind. The idea is that sex appeal isn’t pretentious, but more free spirited and honest, seeing as the setting is in the middle of nowhere. Pyjama blazers, headbands, and a love of improvisation drives the styling for SS16.
Seashore textures include rewashed jersey and denim, which achieves a rougher and organic feel. Sportier fabrics are extremely lightweight, from nylon to see-through plastic, something that’s embossed in snake and crocodile texture.
Asger has collaborated this season with Dr Martens to introduce sandals, and bags are designed in conjunction with Leather Projects. The runway will also quite literally become a part of the collection, with the tropical print set to grace the carpet.
Relaxed rebellion and love is the promise of this collection, both honest and unexplored.