This season Asger Juel Larsen has moved away from any direct trend territory to instead convey an aesthetic that prides itself on an unconscious reality. ‘Born Worn’ tells the story of men that have made fashion redundant, their wardrobe has become a never-ending expansion and exploration of who they are; decades of growth coming and clashing together. Whatever is worn is born, and through this a style is made to be something longstanding.
There’s a polished deconstruction to the garments, such as the frayed cobweb hems on the coats to the backward looking zips at the sleeves. Typically fiery magma tones are sobered through a weathered finish, and brutal tartan check is contained under intentionally thrifty knits. Longevity is a key message here, where improvised and ever-changing layering is encouraged. Funnel necks are teased out from underneath lumberjack shirts like a split personality, and fisherman hats are offset with hillbilly jackets.
The body shape is relaxed from head to toe, with straight leg trousers and longline outerwear; making to ambiguous to whether the collection is vintage or futuristic. Masculinity drives the collection, however with the seemingly ‘carefree’ attitude that actually has depth to it. From the wild and rural to the refined lines, a look has been curated that banished judgement to become raw to the core. As one of the collection’s key slogans says there’s ‘more rules and more rule breakers’ to this season.
Asger has also further developed his fabric use for this collection, with natural soy waxed cotton fabrics coming into action. With the ability to wear and tear it to every individual’s body shape, clothing becomes truly representative of the wearer. This is a collection that encourages the bespoke; to take a trend and actually deconstruct and interpret to your own fit. The runway itself will convey this message, where models arrive fresh and ‘born’, only to leave used and worn-like. Arrival and exit are closer together than you think.